Wok hei, the balance of textures, and eight regional traditions that share almost nothing.
Section 01
Flavor profile
"Chinese food" is not one cuisine — it is at least eight major regional traditions with genuinely different ingredients, techniques, and philosophies. Cantonese cooking prizes freshness and subtlety; Sichuan prizes numbing heat and layered complexity; Hunan is straightforwardly hot; Shandong is savory and stock-driven.
What they share is an attention to texture as a value in its own right, and a balance of the five flavors within a single meal rather than within a single dish.
The major regional cuisines
Cuisine
Character
Signature
Cantonese (Yue)
Fresh, subtle, steamed
Dim sum, char siu
Sichuan (Chuan)
Numbing-spicy (málà), complex
Mapo tofu, dan dan noodles
Hunan (Xiang)
Purely hot, smoky, sour
Steamed fish head with chilies
Jiangsu (Su)
Delicate, sweet, braised
Lion's head meatballs
Shandong (Lu)
Savory, stock-based, seafood
Sweet and sour carp
Fujian (Min)
Soups, umami, seafood
Buddha jumps over the wall
Zhejiang (Zhe)
Fresh, mellow, seafood
Dongpo pork
Anhui (Hui)
Wild herbs, braising
Stewed bamboo shoots
Section 02
Essential pantry
Light soy sauce (seasoning) and dark soy sauce (color and molasses depth) — they are not interchangeable.
Shaoxing wine, Chinkiang black vinegar, sesame oil.
Doubanjiang (fermented chili bean paste) — the soul of Sichuan cooking.
Oyster sauce, hoisin, fermented black beans.
Sichuan peppercorns, dried chilies, star anise, five spice.
Cornstarch — for velveting and for thickening at the very end.
Chef's tip
Sichuan peppercorns do not taste hot — they produce a tingling numbness called má. Combined with chili heat (là) that pairing is málà, the defining Sichuan sensation.
Section 03
Wok hei and stir-frying
Wok hei — "breath of the wok" — is the smoky, seared quality of a proper stir-fry. It requires extremely high heat, a preheated wok, and food that is dry and cut small, cooked in small batches with constant motion.
Home stoves cannot match restaurant burners, so compensate: use a carbon-steel wok or a heavy skillet, get it smoking hot, cook in very small batches, and accept that crowding is fatal. Everything must be prepped and beside the stove before you start — a stir-fry takes ninety seconds and offers no time to chop.
1
Prep everything. Sauces mixed, aromatics chopped, protein velveted, all within arm's reach.
2
Heat the wok until it smokes, then add oil and swirl.
3
Sear the protein in a single layer, undisturbed, then remove it.
4
Cook aromatics for seconds only — garlic and ginger burn fast.
5
Add vegetables hardest-first, tossing constantly.
6
Return the protein, add the sauce, toss until it coats, and finish with sesame oil off the heat.
Section 04
Velveting
Velveting is the technique behind the impossibly tender meat in Chinese restaurant dishes. Marinate sliced protein in cornstarch, egg white, and a little Shaoxing wine and soy, then blanch it briefly in oil or water before stir-frying.
The starch coating protects the surface from direct heat and seals in moisture. It takes twenty minutes and transforms cheap cuts.